Sally Neagle discovers Munupi Lodge, Melville Island.
Sally NeThere is an Island. It is very nearly Australia’s most northern point. 
Gentle and friendly. Seagull Island is a place of pure beauty. Soft white sands ringed by crystal clear waters. Shallow reefs angle away like sun rays.No one lives there. Migratory terns are the only inhabitants. They nest yearly in their thousands before moving off on their life journey. It is a precious place, Scientific researchers wished to publicise its presence and ecological significance but the traditional owners of the Tiwi Islands are keeping it a secret.agle discovers Munupi Lodge, Melville Island.
Gentle and friendly. Seagull Island is a place of pure beauty. Soft white sands ringed by crystal clear waters. Shallow reefs angle away like sun rays.No one lives there. Migratory terns are the only inhabitants. They nest yearly in their thousands before moving off on their life journey. It is a precious place, Scientific researchers wished to publicise its presence and ecological significance but the traditional owners of the Tiwi Islands are keeping it a secret.agle discovers Munupi Lodge, Melville Island.It was between jobs when a friend talked me into taking a short break on Melville Island where she was working at the local school. "…and the fishing’s good". That was all I needed to twist my arm. I’m a country girl at heart with many years working on cattle stations. I love the bush, but try to stop me wetting a line…Air Ngukurr lifted me there, just a half hour flight from Darwin. As I boarded the plane I was pleasantly surprised to find a woman in the pilot’s seat. Jackie was a wealth of knowledge on the many islands off the Territory coastline. Fling low over exposed reefs made me wish I had a hand held GPS. Tidal rivers became endless snakes and deep ocean channels were revealed. The trip was all too short.The airstrip at Garden Point was in the process of a reseal so we landed on a temporary strip next to a logging camp. Tall plantation pines on one side gave the strip an unusual third dimension. The bright red clay landing surface contrasted with the deep dark greens of the pine forest.
The airstrip at Garden Point was in the process of a reseal so we landed on a temporary strip next to a logging camp. Tall plantation pines on one side gave the strip an unusual third dimension. The bright red clay landing surface contrasted with the deep dark greens of the pine forest.
As Jackie winged her way back to Darwin, Michael and Dave from Minupi Lodge were waiting at the airstrip. They guided me to their lodge past brumbies and through lush bush land nourished by early monsoon rain. We stopped at one of the many natural springs for a refreshing swim. The water was cool and clear. We had the place to ourselves.Minupi Lodge is more than just a good fishing base. It is regularly the social centre of the local town, Garden Point. Interesting people are always dropping in. The bar overlooks the water with Bathurst Island in the distance. When the sun goes down it is a view to die for.Bathurst Island has been blessed with an abundance of bounty from the sea and the traditional Tiwi owners plan to keep it that way forever .One of the rules given to operators of the lodge is that no fish leave the island with clients. But whilst guests stay, at Munupi they dine like kings on all variety of seafood.
Each day I had the delight of deciding what to bring back to base for Michael and Dave to prepare for me. Minupi Lodge is located near the northern end of a dramatic channel the Apsley Strait that runs between Melville and Bathurst Islands. Strong northern tides rip through the channel most days dredging away as much as forty metres near the lodge. On small tides huge jewfish congregate in the deep holes and are easily hooked. The tides were a little too big on this trip to try the deep channel but we had plenty of other options.It was already late afternoon but enough time for Dave to take my girlfriend and I out for a bag of mud crabs. The five metre Southwind glass boat zipped across the channel to one of Bathurst Island’s mangrove lined creeks. With a feed in the crate we headed home just as the sun dropped over the horizon. Michael’s son Jarred collected the crabs from Munupi jetty whilst we continued casting lures around the mangroves. The waters gently rippling in the golden colours of a sunset. Barra and queen fish were feeding along the edge.
WHEREMunupi Lodge, Melville Island. Northern Territory, AustraliaTel (08) 8978 3783SEASONSWarm and dry May-Sep.Tropical wet Oct-AprilBEST FISHING BaramundiOct-Dec. March –April.Incoming just before and just after neap tides Bream May-Sep. Incoming just beforeand just after neap tidesGolden SnapperAll year. Incoming on spring tides Jewfish May-Sep Neap tides on the turn.Mackerel Aug-Dec. Incoming on big tidesMangrove Jack Feb-Dec. Outgoing near bottom of tide, coming on to bigger tidesMud CrabFeb-Dec. Incoming tides after neap tides Queenfish and GT’sAll year. Incoming on big tidesThreadfin SalmonOct-Jan. Outgoing near bottom of tide, Coming on to bigger tidesAdditionalMelville Island is Aboriginal owned land and visitors require a permit before entering. Munupi Lodge clients are exempted.In the morning we head out to test the mangrove creeks for barra and those rich tasty crabs again. Being based at the Apsley Strait we can easily fish the mangroves on both Melville and Bathurst Islands. Some creeks are purely tidal, others are largely spring fed. Both trolling and casting lures brought results, often just as they hit the water. Barra chased, chomped and leapt with their trademark head shaking antics. We released them all except one. She was going to be sizzled in garlic and topped with fresh coriander. I took the afternoon off from fishing to try out the local nine-hole course. The course starts directly in front of the lodge so I had plenty of opportunity to watch townspeople show off their technique. What impressed me the most was how quickly they got around the course; driving their car, no golf buggies here. As the sunlight hit the water on my last day, Dave and I were streaking out to the north. Near its northern end, the Apsley Strait opens up in width and the beaches become more frequent and whiter. Abandoned beach shelters come and go. Tall eucalypt forests grow right up to the shoreline. The water turns almost emerald within metres of the edge on the steep beaches. Nearing Melville Island’s most northern point Cape Van Diemen, we slow take it all in. Colours are pure: whites, blues, and aqua greens. We are alone again.I cast out a lure, it’s quickly gobbled up. The large barracuda had been patrolling the deep water close to the beach. We quickly release this critter with his menacing teeth. Schools of tuna come and go keeping us busy playing catchup. Terns appear overhead. Watching, perhaps waiting for a snack. Bored they glide off and head north. There is an island there, my Seagull Island.Dave knows the island well. I feel his rich Chinese and indigenous heritage gives him an affinity with this environment. Within minutes our boat coasts into the island’s shallows. We share the space with a shovelnose ray. It’s so close I feel I could touch it. A turtle moves out deeper. The waters seem so virginal.Deeper reef water beckons. Some reefs are quiet, others very busy. On one we can hardly get a bait to the seabed before swarms of fish hit. Mostly double headers of snapper, coral trout and larger cods. Smaller fish gleam in iridescent hues of tangerine. Coral trout change colour before I can photograph them. And then the giant trevally move in. Stripping line off my reel in deep thrusting runs so hard they nearly burn my thumb. Back and forth, round and round the GT’s test my mettle.It’s time to head back. The plane is coming in at four, we’ve gone a long way from base.My three days went all too quickly, next time I will stay longer. Like the migratory terns one day I will return to Minupi and the beautiful Seagull Island.
WHEREMunupi Lodge, Melville Island. Northern Territory, AustraliaTel (08) 8978 3783SEASONSWarm and dry May-Sep.Tropical wet Oct-AprilBEST FISHING BaramundiOct-Dec. March –April.Incoming just before and just after neap tides Bream May-Sep. Incoming just beforeand just after neap tidesGolden SnapperAll year. Incoming on spring tides Jewfish May-Sep Neap tides on the turn.Mackerel Aug-Dec. Incoming on big tidesMangrove Jack Feb-Dec. Outgoing near bottom of tide, coming on to bigger tidesMud CrabFeb-Dec. Incoming tides after neap tides Queenfish and GT’sAll year. Incoming on big tidesThreadfin SalmonOct-Jan. Outgoing near bottom of tide, Coming on to bigger tidesAdditionalMelville Island is Aboriginal owned land and visitors require a permit before entering. Munupi Lodge clients are exempted.In the morning we head out to test the mangrove creeks for barra and those rich tasty crabs again. Being based at the Apsley Strait we can easily fish the mangroves on both Melville and Bathurst Islands. Some creeks are purely tidal, others are largely spring fed. Both trolling and casting lures brought results, often just as they hit the water. Barra chased, chomped and leapt with their trademark head shaking antics. We released them all except one. She was going to be sizzled in garlic and topped with fresh coriander. I took the afternoon off from fishing to try out the local nine-hole course. The course starts directly in front of the lodge so I had plenty of opportunity to watch townspeople show off their technique. What impressed me the most was how quickly they got around the course; driving their car, no golf buggies here. As the sunlight hit the water on my last day, Dave and I were streaking out to the north. Near its northern end, the Apsley Strait opens up in width and the beaches become more frequent and whiter. Abandoned beach shelters come and go. Tall eucalypt forests grow right up to the shoreline. The water turns almost emerald within metres of the edge on the steep beaches. Nearing Melville Island’s most northern point Cape Van Diemen, we slow take it all in. Colours are pure: whites, blues, and aqua greens. We are alone again.I cast out a lure, it’s quickly gobbled up. The large barracuda had been patrolling the deep water close to the beach. We quickly release this critter with his menacing teeth. Schools of tuna come and go keeping us busy playing catchup. Terns appear overhead. Watching, perhaps waiting for a snack. Bored they glide off and head north. There is an island there, my Seagull Island.Dave knows the island well. I feel his rich Chinese and indigenous heritage gives him an affinity with this environment. Within minutes our boat coasts into the island’s shallows. We share the space with a shovelnose ray. It’s so close I feel I could touch it. A turtle moves out deeper. The waters seem so virginal.Deeper reef water beckons. Some reefs are quiet, others very busy. On one we can hardly get a bait to the seabed before swarms of fish hit. Mostly double headers of snapper, coral trout and larger cods. Smaller fish gleam in iridescent hues of tangerine. Coral trout change colour before I can photograph them. And then the giant trevally move in. Stripping line off my reel in deep thrusting runs so hard they nearly burn my thumb. Back and forth, round and round the GT’s test my mettle.It’s time to head back. The plane is coming in at four, we’ve gone a long way from base.My three days went all too quickly, next time I will stay longer. Like the migratory terns one day I will return to Minupi and the beautiful Seagull Island.
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